Over 1,000,000 MAS supporters in El Alto

The closing of the MAS campaign was one of the most excillorating and inspirational moments of our project. The night was a carnival atmosphere as a mass of blue, black and white colours (the colours of the MAS party) slowly crept up to El Alto, where over 1 million supporters and President Evo Morales, Vice president, Alvaro Linera swayed to the traditional rhythms of Andean and afro beats.

Thanks in part to our international observor credentionals we managed to make our way to the front of the stage where people were proudly waving flags and celebrating the process of decolonization that has been taking place across Bolivia. When we looked back into the crowds of hundreds of thousands of Evo supporters we could see and feel the spirit of Tupac Katari and Bartolina Sisa . The Malkus dressed in their traditional brightly coloured red ponchos held the masses back as the fireworks exploted up above them.

Bolivia is a pluri-national state and as such, we wanted to see how the current social movement was unfolding in a more conservative part of the country. Friday morning we boarded a plane for Santa Cruz, the heart of the opposition. Upon arrival we were greeted with signs of Western influence. A carefully decorated Christmas tree and nativity scene were set at the airport exit. Adds for Subway and Burger King were lined across the airport in bright lights that were impossible to ignore.

We made our way to the city center of Santa Cruz where people were enjoying an afternoon in the sun. The atmosphere in the main plaza, 24 de septembre was completely different from what we had left in La Paz. On the surface things appeared tranquil, yet a feeling of unease permeated the air. The majority of people we approached were reluctant to discuss politics. Many of those who did engage in conversations spoke of their frustration with the current government, arguing that Evo Morales cares only for those of Indigenous decent.



As Santa Cruz is a conservative city we were surprised to see pro Evo’s signs and grafitti. cross town in fact, many people who were planning to vote for the opposition said that Evo had made some positive changes. Particular references included the bonuses, like Juncito Pinto and others that are given for the cost of caring for children.

Traveling from the center of the city to its outskirts there is a rapid change. Red and yellow opposition flags become less numerous and poverty abounds. In the market of Plan Tres Mil, a poor community outside of Santa Cruz, we had the opportunity to speak with many people of Indigenous decent. At first people were nervous to interact with us. It was immediately clear that a culture of fear was deeply embedded. After taking time to develop a deeper rapor with some of the vendors we were introduced to the President of the market. He felt that Evo’s plan for improved roads and infrastructure twas what they needed and wanted, however , he went on to explained that the local municipalities run by the opposition were robbing the Plan Tres Mil of the opportunity to implement real change. For example, several new schools have been built, yet for lack of funding they do not have roofs nor flooring.

It is the night before elections and yet walking around the city it is difficult to tell the difference from any other Saturday night. Wealthy youth and families sit on patios and smile for photos while Indigenous people sit on sidewalks, invisible to the eyes of the “cambas”. Unfortunately a culture of discrimination, racism and apathy abound in Santa Cruz.